Tussar Gichha is a variety of wild silk obtained from Tussar cocoon. The unique feature of Tussar gichha Silk product lies in its unique texture and unevenness. Bilaspur, Champa, Raigarh, Kharsawa and Godda districts of Chhattisgarh and Jharkhand are known for Tussar gichha silk weaving which is being practised in this area for more than 100 years. Tussar gichha silk is generated by the silkworm Antheraea Mylitta which mainly thrives on the food plants Asan and Arjun. Weavers of these areas have been producing Tussar gichha silk saris, dress material, stoles, scarves etc.
Traditionally, Tussar gichha silk fabrics are woven using domestic reeled Tussar silk yarn (Kosa) in warp and Tussar gichha in weft. Sometimes, cotton and spun silk yarns are also used in warp and for ornamentation and extra weft design.
Tussar gichha silk, traditionally, is hand spun yarn produced by the women member of weaver’s family. This technique of producing yarn rarely seems in practice in other silk producing areas. Generally, the fabric is developed on frame loom or pit looms.
How to Identify
- Generally hand reeled Tussar gichha is used in natural state in weft.
- Rough, coarse texture and weft bars are visible due to unevenness of the yarn.
- Color varies from yellowish beige to brown in natural state.
- Causes creases/wrinkle easily, especially with water.
- Yarn dye is not preferred, generally fabric is dyed.